The staircase of the Fortress of Palamidi, Nafplio, Greece

Ascending history at Palamidi. Fortress of Palamidi, Nafplio, Greece

Perched high above the coastal town of Nafplio in Greece, the Fortress of Palamidi asserts itself before its walls even come into view. The climb is steep and unhurried, cut directly into rock, opening wide views across land and sea with every turn. This ascent was never ornamental. It was designed to slow movement, expose approach and reinforce control long before an enemy reached the gates.

Rising 216 metres above the city, the Venetian-built fortress dates back to 1714, engineered as a defensive stronghold overlooking the Argolic Gulf. Its structure is uncompromising, with eight bastions, each operating as a self-contained unit so that the fall of one would not compromise the rest. The Ottomans seized Palamidi just a year after its completion, before Greece reclaimed it in 1822, renaming the bastions after figures such as Achilles and Leonidas. Today, visitors confront the fortress on foot, climbing a staircase once believed to have 999 steps, though the true count is 857. At the summit, sweeping views across the gulf make clear why this height mattered.